Fort William Here We Come!

Day 7 – Saturday 16 June 2009 – Kinlochleven to Fort William – 15 miles

After breakfast we went to put our bags in the shed for collection by the luggage carriers, and I spoke to a lady who was setting off to do the Aonach Eagach on her own. I thought this was quite brave – I haven’t done it myself but it’s the most famous ridge in the UK, making Striding Edge look like a picnic. You need quite a head for heights, and on a windy day like today it could be a bit of a challenge.

With thoughts of lunch we called at the Co-op and got some sandwiches and a couple of pork pies (which I just love when I’m walking). Gerry bought today’s paper and promptly threw most of it away as he didn’t want all the supplements. From Kinlochleven the Way gains height quickly along a pleasant footpath through woodland, until reaching the Land-Rover track west of Mamore Lodge (where the Canadian contingent stayed last night) which is in effect yet another military road which then goes on for miles through impressive scenery, in the shadow of the Mamores with Stob Ban looking majestic.

It rained on and off early on, but for most of the long military road section it was OK. We were passed by a Scottish couple who stayed at our B&B last night. He enjoys himself by running the WHW so he was having a pretty relaxing time, even though they were only taking five days. A few ruined buildings were passed at Tigh-na-Sleubhaich, then the track swung right at the Lairig Mor (Big Pass).

We had lunch by a little stream (the pork pie was good) then carried on into cleared forest, still with lots of people about, then on to more open moorland after coming close to the road up to Lunn Da Bhra. As Ben Nevis appeared in front we entered mature forest and the rain returned. The ground was like a soft carpet of pine needles as we plodded on, eventually reaching a wide new forest road and putting on full waterproofs – which was the cue for the rain to stop!

We followed the forest track down towards the Glen Nevis Visitor Centre: through binoculars hordes of people could be seen descending the tourist path off Ben Nevis – it can’t have been much fun for them as the summit had been in cloud all day. It began to rain again as we reached the road: Linda and Val were getting fed up by now so weren’t pleased to learn that we still had a couple of miles to go. Mind you, it’s such a tedious final stretch along this busy road that it would be better if they made the Visitor Centre the official end.

Finally, in the usual anti-climactic way, we were at the finish board in Fort William, where we took photos of other relieved walkers in return for a quid pro quo. Finding a handy bar in the main street of Fort William, we stopped for a celebratory pint before continuing to the Old Observatory B&B, which was on the far side of town and would have been the best yet – except that our shower would only run cold. What followed was hectic activity by the owner and his father, as they found a spare thermostat which was ‘in stock’ – water on, water off, check, not working, water on, water off … but eventually we had a great shower and all was forgiven.

We went out for an evening meal at an Italian restaurant which was great. Linda had us in stitches with a true story about a wine tasting evening where she ended up drinking the raffle prizes! Easily done, I suppose!

And so ended the West Highland Way, easily the most social of any of the long distance walks which we’ve done. Iit’s not too hard and treats you to some fabulous scenery. We got the timing right – May gave us good weather before the midges arrived. But make sure you book early – some people either found accommodation difficult to get or had to travel some distance to and from start/finish points. A great walk, one which we would recommend to anybody.

And if you’ve enjoyed reading this blog, please leave a comment so I can see if anyone is reading it. If I discover that there actually are readers out there, I might do a blog of last year’s Pennine Way…

Photos: 1. The old hydro-electric generator building in Kinlochleven, now a multi-purpose centre; 2. Tigh-na-Sleubaich; 3. Stob Ban; 4. Lochan Lunn Da Bhra; 5. Ben Nevis (it's there somewhere); 6. The finish, with Val, me, Linda and Gerry.

Incidentally, I climbed Stob Ban, one of the Munros in the Mamores, several years ago in absolutely foul conditions, with Frank Brown and Mike Watkins (see 214 Wainwrights Blog). After various complaints from me and Frank, Mike uttered those famous words, oft repeated since: "Ah've bin out in worse weather than this. MUCH worse!"