Normal Service is Resumed (Weather-wise)

Day 6 – Friday 15 May 2009 – Kingshouse to Kinlochleven - 9 miles

I could hear the rain on the skylight during the early hours, but I suppose four days of continuous sunshine is more than one can hope for. As we emerged from the hotel the skies were grey and leaden, and the wind was cold, but at least it wasn’t raining. It made a change to wear long trousers. We decided against the big Buachaille as the top was shrouded in cloud and the weather looked like it would get worse rather than better.

So off we set, the four of us now, along the track to Alt na Feagh and then up the dreaded Devil’s Staircase (which is actually a pleasant climb to the highest point on the WHW at 1797’ – still not as high as Pendle Hill). Once again the Way was busy, with hordes of walkers. Just after the summit of the pass, the rain began in more earnest and the wind was cold. Cloud obscured the view towards the Mamores and Ben Nevis.

This was to be our shortest day, thank goodness, and I felt that the best thing would be to get on with it and get to Kinlochleven as soon as possible. It still feels like quite a long track from the Devil’s Staircase, as it passes the massive pipes which brought water to the generators for the Alcan aluminium smelter in Kinlochleven – water still flows through the six pipes from the Blackwater Reservoir but comes out at the bottom without doing any work, the smelter having shut down several years ago.

The big Scot from the three amigos came walking by, so we caught up with each other’s news, but by late lunchtime we had arrived at our destination and had a beer and lunch in the Tail Race pub, along with several other walkers. As a result of the closure of the aluminium smelter, Kinlochleven is a quiet place, but unlike some towns in north-east England which have been badly affected by the closure of industry, Kinlochleven is smart and all the houses well-maintained, with people obviously taking great pride in their homes.

Then on to the B&B which was luxurious. By evening it was cold, raw and windy outside, so we simply found the nearest place to eat before returning for an early night before the last day tomorrow.

Photos: 1. The Kingshouse and Buachaille Etive Mor; 2. Sron na Creise - the bridge is on the main Glencoe Road; 3. At the summit of the Devil's Staircase with Gerry; 4. Rather obvious signs of industry near Kinlochleven.