Glens, Woods and Saints

Day 4 – Wednesday 13 May 2009 - Inverarnan to Tyndrum - 13 miles

Unharmed from our night in a haunted bedroom (yeah, right) we arrived for breakfast, served in a dusty dining room (of course) with original Victorian wallpaper. I reckon that within two days Val and I could completely ruin the character of The Drovers by simply doing a bit of cleaning and decorating. The three girls were in pretty good condition considering the previouis night’s whisky tasting, and stuffed ducks looked on as we ate our scrambled eggs.

Once again the skies were blue as we set off, calling at the Beinghlas camp site shop to get sandwiches for lunch. The walk through Glen Falloch was a delight, with the river an ever present feature below us, the train clattering its way across the green-painted viaduct and the sound of the road just present in the background. At Derrydarroch we crossed the bridge constructed in 1997 by the Royal Engineers – presumably the previous one was washed away - then soon crouched down to get through a sheep-creep under the railway and followed a section of old road past a load of bullocks (?).

After crossing the main A82 a plaque proudly stated that the following 929m section of path (pretty accurate, huh?) had been repaired by some volunteer group with public money. The following section was exceptionally rough, but improved beyond measure after about 929m!! Entering the wood just west of Crianlarich we had just decided to look for somewhere to have lunch when around the corner appeared … a picnic table! Passing walkers exchanged brief tales – one couple trying to do the Way in four days (‘to beat the weather’) and two old fellas walking N – S who had started the previous week by doing the Great Glen Way and had terrible weather.

The following few miles through the woods were on pleasant undulating tracks, and then we crossed the main road and headed towards St Fillan’s Priory, a small ruin and graveyard. The wind was getting strong now as we looked back to the magnificent twin peaks of Ben More and Stob Binnein. Val’s blisters were hurting so at Strathfillan Farm she changed to trainers, which were worse, so after 50 yards she changed back to boots again.

The last section crossed the main road yet again on the road to the Cononish gold mine (it’s still working) and past old lead workings: a monument here in the form of an obelisk, apparently made of stone covered in lead sheets, has had nearly all its lead pinched. After a shandy in Paddy’s Bar at Tyndrum, we called at the Green Welly Stop to get some Compeed for Val’s blisters and then arrived at our B&B for the night, Dalkell Cottage.

The proprietor keeps a clean house with all mod-cons and at least seven letting bedrooms, but she’s a little short on ‘bedside manner’ – ‘Remove your boots’ – ‘Follow me please’ – ‘Don’t dry clothes on radiators’ – ‘Please pay me now’. Fish and chips at the Good Food Bar were surprisingly yummy, followed by a couple of beers with Jim and Moira back at Paddy’s Bar.

Photos: 1. An Caisteal from Glen Falloch; 2. The Derrydarroch Bridge plaque; 3. Healthy livestock; 4. The twin peaks of Ben More & Stob Binnein; 5. Graveyard at St Fillan's Priory; 6. Ben Laoigh, Tyndrum.